I am standing on the jetty waiting to go to immigration after a wonderful stop over in Cape Town. So different to Rio where the facilities were worse than basic and numerous crew were mugged. Here we have had fantastic weather, too much food, good company and too many late nights.
I apologise for the rushed blog and hope that can get my act together in Australia.
I wasn't able to get up Table Mountain as on the two days that I tried the cable car was not running due to high winds. We did manage an open top bus tour that took us to the lower cable station and then on to Cables Bay, a beautiful beach where we ate ice cream and paddled in the sea. I also got out to Robben Island - a tour that I found very moving as we were guided around by someone who spent time there. I can't understand why people can be so cruel to others!
It has been a great place to stay and I would love to come back and to spend more time exploring the city and surrounding area. The people have been really friendly and keen to hear about our adventure. The Victoria and Alfred Waterfront is a bubble in the city where only the affluent can afford to visit. Fortunately the Rand:£ exchange rate is in our favour so everything is very cheap. £15 for a three course meal with wine and beer for those partial to such things. My best meal was a 'game kebab' of ostrich, kudu, Impala and wildebeest. Really tasty with the wildebeest melting in my mouth. The fish has been excellent and with other lunches and dinners eaten out I have probably a gained all a the weight lost to date.
Just heard that immigration are running at least 45 minutes late, so more time to get this finished.
I sit here (in reality standing while leaning on a convenient dustbin), slightly anxious about the journey ahead. The Southern Ocean is notorious for high winds and big seas though we have an advantage in that we experienced something similar in the storm as we approached Cape Town. We need to make sure that everyone is clipped on at all times and there is always one hand for the boat
and one for ourselves. Most injuries occur below decks so moving carefully will be the order of the day. I am sure we will all be OK, just a bit wary of what is ahead.
It has been lovely to get everyone's messages, comments and emails and to know that I have the support back home. Please continue. Time is always short in port so apologies for to always being able to respond but my thoughts are with you all. What this adventurers teaching me is that I need to be more nurturing of my relationships and friendships as every one of you is important to me - I have only just realised how important.
I must sign off now. I will try and add some photos but as you regular readers know I am not always successful. Here goes!
Kate xxx
Saturday 31 October 2015
Friday 30 October 2015
Leg 2 - Rio to Cape Town
Wow - a journey that was tougher than I could have imagined, but I expect easier than the next race to Australia.
Race start was fast and furious with winds much stronger than expected and many of the boats being overpowered. The decision to change the sail plan on our boat was made late in the day but after a slow start we were able to race through the fleet. Unfortunately a tactical decision midway through the race meant we landed up having to tack into some pretty strong weather, the wind always seeming to come from exactly where we wanted to go. Our track looks a bit like a Christmas tree, but then that is racing for you.
The storm we hit before getting into Cape Town was fierce with winds up to 40/50 knots and gusts to 65 knots recorded on a regular basis. Waves of 10 metres came from all directions and it was not a comfortable ride. The boat would get to the top of a wave and after a second when the boat felt as if it was suspended it would fall back in one of two ways; either smoothly down the other side or with a hugh crash; crockery flying, saucepans crashing and crew hanging on for dear life. I was never scared but took comfort from the fact that these boats have been built to withstand such conditions. We had damage but nothing serious and other than a few minor injuries the crew were all safe and sound.
But there were also times when the stars were so beautiful and bright, the colour of the water so vibrant as Albatross soared around our mast. Such huge birds. We saw turtles swim by and dolphins dance around the boat as we made our way east to Cape Town. Flying fish were not as abundant as the first leg but there was a definite increase in the number of squid that landed on the deck. The 'deck walk' each morning would reveal dead squid trapped in sails, under ropes and caught up with the shrouds. Funny looking creatures with enormous eyes and ink filled bodies.
Our entry into Cape Town was spectacular. We managed to get caught in a wind hole and bobbed about in Table Bay for about 18 hours waiting for the wind to pick up. The benefit of this was that the other watch, not mine as we were asleep, were able to watch the sun rise over Table Mountain. A spectacular day with bright sunshine though little wind, an essential element for sailing! We watched whales spout plumes of water into the air, with one managing to launch itself into the air reasonably close by. There were numerous seals, heads down and flippers in the air, entertaining us as we slowly crawled our way into Table Bay with the spectacular back drop of Table Mountain towering over us.
We were met by the Clipper race control boat that circled us taking photos while Neill entertained us on his trombone. We eventually crossed the finish line and after putting all the sails away we motored into the Victoria and Alfred marina. Family and friends were there to welcome us as well as many other crew who were busy working on their boats. At one point a canon was fired which made each and every one of us jump out of our skin. A memorable and spectacular entry into Cape Town.
The race was much tougher than I could have imagined. Living conditions when heeled over at 45 degrees are not easy. Just going to the heads (toilet) is an issue as I struggled to sit on a bouncing loo hoping that the next crash wasn't going to cause too much damage. At one point the entire contents of the starboard watch snack box came flying though the heads 'door' (in reality a curtain) and landed at my feet. Cushions in the saloon kept falling onto the floor and it was virtually impossible to keep the galley tidy. The water maker wouldn't work and water couldnt drain out of the sink plug holes as they were at the top (certainly designed by a man). Cooking was a challenge though I did manage to make bread at 45 degrees. The cake was shaped like a wave as it was impossible to keep the oven horizontal as we rocked from side to side, up and down. Towards the end we lived on Pot Noodles, biscuits and cheese as it was impossible to cook and those on Mother duty were feeling ill.
But we survived, we were challenged and we finished the race. It was mixed. There were times when I could have given up, times when I wondered what on earth I was doing sitting on a cold and wet deck, times when I could lie back and take in the starry sky and times when I watched the Southern Cross track its way across the heavens.
It is time to finish this post and to move onto our time in Cape Town. I still haven't worked out how to get photos into my blogs but there is hope yet. I will ask Marcus at breakfast tomorrow morning (my IT consultant on Legs 2 and 3) and will get the photos put into a separate post.
Race start was fast and furious with winds much stronger than expected and many of the boats being overpowered. The decision to change the sail plan on our boat was made late in the day but after a slow start we were able to race through the fleet. Unfortunately a tactical decision midway through the race meant we landed up having to tack into some pretty strong weather, the wind always seeming to come from exactly where we wanted to go. Our track looks a bit like a Christmas tree, but then that is racing for you.
The storm we hit before getting into Cape Town was fierce with winds up to 40/50 knots and gusts to 65 knots recorded on a regular basis. Waves of 10 metres came from all directions and it was not a comfortable ride. The boat would get to the top of a wave and after a second when the boat felt as if it was suspended it would fall back in one of two ways; either smoothly down the other side or with a hugh crash; crockery flying, saucepans crashing and crew hanging on for dear life. I was never scared but took comfort from the fact that these boats have been built to withstand such conditions. We had damage but nothing serious and other than a few minor injuries the crew were all safe and sound.
But there were also times when the stars were so beautiful and bright, the colour of the water so vibrant as Albatross soared around our mast. Such huge birds. We saw turtles swim by and dolphins dance around the boat as we made our way east to Cape Town. Flying fish were not as abundant as the first leg but there was a definite increase in the number of squid that landed on the deck. The 'deck walk' each morning would reveal dead squid trapped in sails, under ropes and caught up with the shrouds. Funny looking creatures with enormous eyes and ink filled bodies.
Our entry into Cape Town was spectacular. We managed to get caught in a wind hole and bobbed about in Table Bay for about 18 hours waiting for the wind to pick up. The benefit of this was that the other watch, not mine as we were asleep, were able to watch the sun rise over Table Mountain. A spectacular day with bright sunshine though little wind, an essential element for sailing! We watched whales spout plumes of water into the air, with one managing to launch itself into the air reasonably close by. There were numerous seals, heads down and flippers in the air, entertaining us as we slowly crawled our way into Table Bay with the spectacular back drop of Table Mountain towering over us.
We were met by the Clipper race control boat that circled us taking photos while Neill entertained us on his trombone. We eventually crossed the finish line and after putting all the sails away we motored into the Victoria and Alfred marina. Family and friends were there to welcome us as well as many other crew who were busy working on their boats. At one point a canon was fired which made each and every one of us jump out of our skin. A memorable and spectacular entry into Cape Town.
The race was much tougher than I could have imagined. Living conditions when heeled over at 45 degrees are not easy. Just going to the heads (toilet) is an issue as I struggled to sit on a bouncing loo hoping that the next crash wasn't going to cause too much damage. At one point the entire contents of the starboard watch snack box came flying though the heads 'door' (in reality a curtain) and landed at my feet. Cushions in the saloon kept falling onto the floor and it was virtually impossible to keep the galley tidy. The water maker wouldn't work and water couldnt drain out of the sink plug holes as they were at the top (certainly designed by a man). Cooking was a challenge though I did manage to make bread at 45 degrees. The cake was shaped like a wave as it was impossible to keep the oven horizontal as we rocked from side to side, up and down. Towards the end we lived on Pot Noodles, biscuits and cheese as it was impossible to cook and those on Mother duty were feeling ill.
But we survived, we were challenged and we finished the race. It was mixed. There were times when I could have given up, times when I wondered what on earth I was doing sitting on a cold and wet deck, times when I could lie back and take in the starry sky and times when I watched the Southern Cross track its way across the heavens.
It is time to finish this post and to move onto our time in Cape Town. I still haven't worked out how to get photos into my blogs but there is hope yet. I will ask Marcus at breakfast tomorrow morning (my IT consultant on Legs 2 and 3) and will get the photos put into a separate post.
Wednesday 7 October 2015
Leg 1 to Rio
First of all I would like to thank everyone who came to St Kats to see us off way back on the 30th August. It was great to see so many of you and to know that I have your support as I travel around the worlead.
We have now arrived in Rio after a long 33 days at sea despite all that the Atlantic had to throw at us in the way of squalls, strong and sudden gusts, no winds, baking sun, as well as the full moon, starlit skies, whales, dolphins and numerous flying fish.
"So what was it really like?" I can hear you asking. It was hard, especially having to get out of bed, tired, and feeling seasick. There were times when I was sitting on deck that I wondered what I was doing and whether or not I would make it around the world. How was I going to explain my early departure from the race to everyone who's is supporting me back home? But then I thought of advice given by a Round The Worlder (RTW) from the last race who suggested writing down the reasons for doing the race and revisiting the piece of paper whenever doubt comes to mind.
For me one of the reasons for taking part in this race is to be able to visit all the different places around the world, to sail into Rio, Cape Town, Sydney, New York etc. Coming into Rio was incredible. The weather could have been clearer but Sugar Loaf was there in all its splender. Rio is situated around Guanamara Bay and when we crossed the finish line at about 0730 hrs there was a sense of achievement. We had crossed the Atlantic Ocean, 5600 miles, and arrived in Rio by boat. Eduardo, a Brazilian national, had never seen the city from this angle - he was given the honour of 'driving' the boat in.
It was not all bad. We had stunning starlit skies, a full moon, hot (sometimes too hot) days when we were unable to find any shade. The winds were variable - sometimes too strong and gusty and at other times so light that we moved backwards. We came in the middle of the fleet for the ocean sprint to the south of the Doldrums but last in the overall race. Room for improvement - we can only do better, and as one friend pointed out "at least you didn't run aground".
Living at 45 degrees is not easy, especially when on the same tack for days at a time. I became adept at setting my bunk at the correct angle though my 'bunk buddy' would lower it, only for me to raise it up again when it was my time to sleep. A bit like windows on a train - always being open and closed by different passengers.
I was wary about sharing a bunk to start with but it wasn't as bad as I had expected. My 'bunk buddy' was on the opposite watch so that we never needed the bed at the same time. I would sleep while she was working and vice versa. Being tidy is the key to sharing such a small space. I am lucky in that I can go to sleep quite easily, and then stay asleep despite the noise going on around me. It was a bit of a challenge when the door to the engine room was opened right next to my head but I generally slept well. The first night in the hotel was strange as my bed didn't move and the noises from a sailing boat - sails flapping, ropes flogging, winches grinding etc - were absent.
Time has run out and I am going to have to sign off. It has been hard to keep in touch with people here in Rio as Internet connection is not good and we don't have any connection on the boat where I have been spending most of my time. I need to be on the boat in about an hour and anxiety is increasing. The seas are going to be big but the upside is that we should be in Cape Town in less than three weeks. Hopefully the marina is fit for purpose as the one here is a building site in preparation for the Olympics next year. Also apologies for the lack of photos - I don't seem to be able to get my camera to talk to the iPad. Hopefully all will be sorted for South Africa.
Thanks for all your support and I will be in touch soon.
We have now arrived in Rio after a long 33 days at sea despite all that the Atlantic had to throw at us in the way of squalls, strong and sudden gusts, no winds, baking sun, as well as the full moon, starlit skies, whales, dolphins and numerous flying fish.
"So what was it really like?" I can hear you asking. It was hard, especially having to get out of bed, tired, and feeling seasick. There were times when I was sitting on deck that I wondered what I was doing and whether or not I would make it around the world. How was I going to explain my early departure from the race to everyone who's is supporting me back home? But then I thought of advice given by a Round The Worlder (RTW) from the last race who suggested writing down the reasons for doing the race and revisiting the piece of paper whenever doubt comes to mind.
For me one of the reasons for taking part in this race is to be able to visit all the different places around the world, to sail into Rio, Cape Town, Sydney, New York etc. Coming into Rio was incredible. The weather could have been clearer but Sugar Loaf was there in all its splender. Rio is situated around Guanamara Bay and when we crossed the finish line at about 0730 hrs there was a sense of achievement. We had crossed the Atlantic Ocean, 5600 miles, and arrived in Rio by boat. Eduardo, a Brazilian national, had never seen the city from this angle - he was given the honour of 'driving' the boat in.
It was not all bad. We had stunning starlit skies, a full moon, hot (sometimes too hot) days when we were unable to find any shade. The winds were variable - sometimes too strong and gusty and at other times so light that we moved backwards. We came in the middle of the fleet for the ocean sprint to the south of the Doldrums but last in the overall race. Room for improvement - we can only do better, and as one friend pointed out "at least you didn't run aground".
Living at 45 degrees is not easy, especially when on the same tack for days at a time. I became adept at setting my bunk at the correct angle though my 'bunk buddy' would lower it, only for me to raise it up again when it was my time to sleep. A bit like windows on a train - always being open and closed by different passengers.
I was wary about sharing a bunk to start with but it wasn't as bad as I had expected. My 'bunk buddy' was on the opposite watch so that we never needed the bed at the same time. I would sleep while she was working and vice versa. Being tidy is the key to sharing such a small space. I am lucky in that I can go to sleep quite easily, and then stay asleep despite the noise going on around me. It was a bit of a challenge when the door to the engine room was opened right next to my head but I generally slept well. The first night in the hotel was strange as my bed didn't move and the noises from a sailing boat - sails flapping, ropes flogging, winches grinding etc - were absent.
Time has run out and I am going to have to sign off. It has been hard to keep in touch with people here in Rio as Internet connection is not good and we don't have any connection on the boat where I have been spending most of my time. I need to be on the boat in about an hour and anxiety is increasing. The seas are going to be big but the upside is that we should be in Cape Town in less than three weeks. Hopefully the marina is fit for purpose as the one here is a building site in preparation for the Olympics next year. Also apologies for the lack of photos - I don't seem to be able to get my camera to talk to the iPad. Hopefully all will be sorted for South Africa.
Thanks for all your support and I will be in touch soon.
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